Button or Joystick is sticking or not working? L@@K HERE!

The first thing you want to do is test the X-Arcade™ using the X-Arcade™ Test Utility Program. This program can be run on a PC only, but should still be your first step to solving any problems. Download X-Arcade™ Test Utility Program (make sure you don't have any software running that might be making inputs not work, such as macro programs like X-Hotkeys).

If all of the buttons and joystick directions work properly in the test program, your X-Arcade™ is working properly, and you may need to simply configure it properly for the game/emulator you are trying to use it with. See MAME instructions.

If a single button or joystick direction does not work in the X-Arcade™ Test Utility Program, or you do not have access to a PC, follow all of these simple steps to determine the exact cause of the problem:

NOTE: It does not void the warranty to open the X-Arcade per our instructions here, and there are even a few spare switches inside if you need them.

JOYSTICK:1. If Joystick 1 is the only thing not working, turn NUMLOCK on. On a laptop this is often done by holding a blue "Fn" key and pressing another key (usually with a numpad graphic on it) at the same time to enable it.

If the joystick is sticking in a game such as Pac-Man, Ms. Pac-Man, and Donkey Kong, this is because the joystick needs to be in 4-way mode for those games.
Open the X-Arcade™ (this does not void the warranty)
Check that the wires on the microswitch are firmly attached to both the microswitch and the jumper on the PCB. You can unplug the jumper from the PCB, then reattach it firmly. Click here to see schematic.
If a joystick is sticking in one direction or you are having trouble with diagonals, you likely simply need to adjust the microswitch for that direction.
Finally, try swapping another working microswitch with the one causing problems to see if it is a faulty microswitch. If the problem follows the microswitch to the new location the microswitch needs replaced, click here to contact us and let us know. If it does not, see PCB INPUT TEST below.

BUTTON:

Be sure your operating system is set to a US 101 keyboard. If it is set to another country some of the keys may have different functions.
Open the X-Arcade™
Check to see if the microswitch has by chance simply fallen out of its socket and if it has just snap it snugly back into place.
Be sure there is nothing, for instance a wire, in between the microswitch and the button causing them not to connect properly.
Check that the wires on the microswitch are firmly attached to both the microswitch, and the jumper on the PCB. You can unplug the jumper from the PCB, then reattach it firmly. Click here to see schematic.
If the button is physically getting stuck down (usually due to a liquid being spilled into the button), remove the button, disassemble it by pushing the 2 tabs on the bottom of the button together, and clean the shaft inside and out with alcohol.
Finally, try swapping another working microswitch with the one causing problems to see if it is a faulty microswitch. If the problem follows the microswitch to the new location, the microswitch needs replaced, click here to contact us and let us know what color the spring inside your button is. If it does not, see PCB INPUT TEST below.

Tankstick MAX button spring sound versus an input fault

For the commercial-grade buttons used in the reviewed Tankstick MAX case, engineering confirmed that some spring sound during normal button movement is expected. Replacing the controller with the same button design would not reliably eliminate that sound. This is not a diagnosis of every unusual noise: sticking, failure to return, intermittent input, or damaged parts still require their own checks.

First test whether each affected button presses, returns and registers normally. Send support a short video with sound and identify the affected buttons if the movement or noise is unclear. If an email attachment is rejected for size, use a smaller clip or a viewable sharing link; once support receives it, do not keep resending the same evidence.

Support suggested a very small amount of plastic-safe silicone lubricant at the spring-to-housing contact as an optional noise-reduction measure, not a required repair or guaranteed cure. Disconnect all power and USB first. Do not spray directly into the button, and keep lubricant off switches, electrical contacts and wiring. Follow the product instructions and ask support before opening it if unsure. No customer-confirmed improvement from lubrication was recorded in this case.

If you do not want to modify a new controller, contact support about your return options rather than repeating unwanted lubrication advice. Quieter Japanese-style buttons may be a modification option, but this case does not establish a drop-in model, terminal fit, mounting dimensions or complete silence. Obtain exact fitment guidance before buying parts.

PCB INPUT TEST:If you've tried all of the above, then you are now left with determining if you have a PCB issue vs. a cable connection one. There are 2 ways to do this:

Method 1: The easiest way to test an input is to jump a small wire or paper clip for example between the ground wire and the input that isn't working. (See schematic) so, for example, let's pretend player 2 side button 1 is not working, looking at the schematic we can see that that's J4 (gray) and the blue wire, and the purple wire is the ground. So you could jump those 2 inputs on the PCB directly (with your wire or paper clip) while looking at the test program to see if it reacts. If it does, the PCB is fine and you will want to inspect your cables again.

Method 2: determine whether the failure follows a harness or stays at a PCB socket. Use the matching schematic and support guidance to identify compatible plugs before swapping them. Disconnect power/USB before moving internal connectors. Record both the physical control and its new logical test-program assignment after the swap.

If you need further assistance after trying everything above or have determined that you need a microswitch, click here to contact us and let us know. Please see this very helpful video overview of how to fix any buttons or switches!

If the same physical control/wire remains dead when its harness is moved to another compatible socket, while a known-good harness works at both sockets, suspect the harness/connection path rather than declaring a PCB fault.
If a known-good harness/control fails only at one particular PCB input but works at the other, suspect that PCB input path. Do not infer a board fault solely from a failed improvised jumper test.
In a reviewed DIY Tri-Mode case, the same player-two button-4 wire failed when the J4 harness was moved to J5; the customer clarified that both PCB slots worked. Support corrected an earlier board-only interpretation and arranged a harness as well. The history did not confirm installation or a completed fix.
Send support the exact socket/harness test matrix, photos and microswitch checks already completed. Do not blindly transfer J4/J5 numbering to a different board revision.

Source article: <https://support.xgaming.com/support/solutions/articles/12000003085-button-or-joystick-is-sticking-or-not-working-l-k-here->